Balaclava + Fur Pattern | Model B001

STEP 1

1. Start by grabbing the MIDDLE PANEL.

2. Cut out the eyelet placement guides on the pattern.

3. Place the pattern on the right side of the fabric and mark the eyelet placement guides with chalk.

STEP 2

1. This step is optional.

2. Cut 2 small strips of lightweight to medium weight interfacing.

3. Place the strips on the wrong side of the fabric directly on top of the eyelet placement guides.

4. Iron the interfacing on(Interfacing can be fusible or sew-on. I recommend using a fusible interfacing).

Pro Tip: The interfacing will help secure the eyelets for a longer lasting product when working with stretch knit fabric.

STEP 3

1. Next we will be adding eyelets. The eyelets can be any size. I am using a smaller 3/8 inch eyelet.

2. They are very easy to install. Punch or cut holes in the eyelet placement guide marks.

3. Place the the large side of the eyelet through the placement guide hole from the right side of the fabric.

4. Add the backend on from the wrong side of the fabric.

5. We will be using a standard hammer die to install the eyelet. This is a great way to go and typically comes with eyelets kits.

6. Slide the eyelets on the base. Place the hammer die end over top and hammer into place locking the backend of the eyelet to the front.

7. Repeat this set of the second eyelet placement guide.

8. After adding both eyelets it is best to roll the hem edge over. The edge should go pass the eyelets. The goal is to have the eyelets fall on the inside of the hem. The hem will end up becoming a loop passage for the elastic cord.

STEP 4

Before moving onto the next step I recommend looking a few sewing techniques to elevate your product. The first method is using a cover stitch sewing machine.

A cover stitch sewing machine is a type of sewing machine that creates professional-looking hems similar to those you see on store-bought garments, especially on stretchy knit fabrics. Unlike a regular sewing machine that typically uses two threads (top and bobbin), a cover stitch machine uses multiple threads to create a double or triple stitch line on the top of the fabric, while simultaneously covering the raw edge with a looper thread underneath. This results in a stretchable stitch that is perfect for fabrics that need to retain elasticity, such as knits.

Benefits of using a cover stitch sewing machine.

1. Stretchability: The cover stitch is inherently stretchy, making it ideal for knit fabrics that need to maintain elasticity, such as when sewing hems on t-shirts or leggings.

2. Professional Finish: It provides a clean and professional finish to the hems and seams, mirroring what you would see in commercial garments.

3. Durability: The multiple threads and interlocking loops create a durable seam that withstands stretching and repeated wear and washing.

4. Versatility: Besides hemming, you can use a cover stitch machine for decorative purposes and to attach elastic, making it a versatile tool for working with stretch knit fabrics.

5. Prevents Puckering: The differential feed mechanism helps in managing stretchy fabrics, ensuring the fabric is not puckered or distorted during sewing.

Overall, a cover stitch sewing machine is an excellent investment for anyone working regularly with knit fabrics, as it offers durability, stretchability, and a high-quality finish.

The second method is setting up your domestic sewing machine with a twin double needle.

A twin or double needle is a sewing machine needle that consists of two needles attached to a single shank, designed to create two parallel rows of stitches simultaneously. It's used with a standard domestic sewing machine, transforming it into a tool that can somewhat mimic the look of a cover stitch, especially when used on the hem of knit fabrics.

Benefits of using a cover stitch sewing machine.

1. Hems: A twin needle is ideal for hemming stretch knit fabrics because it creates a hem that looks professional and stretches with the fabric, preventing popped seams when the fabric is stretched.

2. Elasticity: The zigzag pattern of the bobbin thread allows the fabric to stretch without breaking the stitches, making it perfect for stretchy materials.

3. Decorative Effects: Besides functional hems, twin needles can be used for decorative topstitching on knit fabrics, adding detail and professionalism to your projects.

4. Adaptability: Using a twin needle allows you to achieve a cover-stitch-like effect without needing a special cover stitch machine, making it a cost-effective solution for those who don't want to invest in an additional machine.

5. Prevents Tunneling: Some twin needles are designed specifically to prevent tunneling (where the fabric between the two rows of stitches puckers up). Using a stretch or ballpoint twin needle, appropriate for knit fabrics, can help mitigate this issue.

When using a twin needle on stretch knit fabrics, it's essential to use the right type of needle (stretch or ballpoint twin needle) to prevent skipped stitches and damage to the fabric. Also, ensure that your machine is set correctly for twin needle use to avoid needle breakage and other issues.

If you do not want to with of those options I highly recommend using a Zig-zag stitch.

A zigzag stitch is one of the most versatile stitches available on a sewing machine. It consists of stitches that go back and forth diagonally, forming a “Z” or zigzag pattern. This stitch is particularly useful for sewing stretch knit fabrics due to its inherent flexibility and strength.

1. Elasticity: The zigzag stitch stretches with the fabric, making it ideal for materials like knits and elastane that expand and contract. This prevents the seams from popping when the fabric stretches.

2. Edge Finishing: Zigzag stitches can be used to finish the edges of stretch knit fabrics to prevent fraying and rolling. It wraps the thread around the fabric edge, securing it neatly.

3. Seaming: When sewing seams on stretch fabrics, a zigzag stitch will provide stretchability and strength, ensuring the seam remains intact and flexible during wear and movement.

4. Versatility: You can adjust the size of the zigzag stitch for different effects and functions, such as applying elastic, creating decorative seams, or doing overcasting (which mimics the finish of an overlocker or serger).

5. Preventing Puckering: A zigzag stitch can help prevent puckering on stretchy fabrics, as it allows the fabric to lie flat and stretch evenly after sewing.

When using a zigzag stitch on stretch knit fabrics, it's often recommended to use a ballpoint or stretch needle, which is designed to prevent snagging or breaking the knit fibers. Additionally, practicing on a scrap piece of the fabric you'll be using for your project can help you find the perfect zigzag settings for your specific material.

STEP 5

1. Once you decided on the type of sewing method. Grab the MIDDLE PANEL.

2. Locate the hem guide on the pattern.

3. Roll the edge over(make sure it folds over pass the eyelets guides).

4. Place a few pins.

5. Add a stitch directly on the edge of the fabric covering the raw edge with a stitch.

STEP 6

1. Grab the UNDER LOOP PANEL. Just like in the previous steps we will be adding eyelets to the eyelet placement guides.

2. Chalk the eyelet placement guides.

3. Add fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric directly on top of the eyelet placement guides.

4. Cut or punch holes in chalked eyelet placement guides.

5. Install eyelets in holes(Eyelets are installed the same way as the steps above).

STEP 7

Before we moving onto the next step I highly recommend looking into a few different sewing methods to improve the outcome of your sewing projects.

The first technique is using a Serger Sewing Machine.

A serger machine, also known as an overlocker, is a specialized type of sewing machine designed for edging, hemming, or seaming fabric. It's particularly famous for its use with stretch knit fabrics due to its ability to create clean, finished edges and seams that are strong and stretchy. Sergers differ from traditional sewing machines in several key ways and offer unique advantages, especially for handling stretchy materials.

1. Edge Finishing: The serger trims and finishes fabric edges in one pass, creating a professional and durable edge that resists fraying and rolling, which is common in knit fabrics.

2. Elasticity: The overlock stitch created by a serger is inherently stretchy, making it perfect for constructing stretch knit garments. The seams will stretch with the fabric without breaking or puckering, providing comfort and durability in wear.

3. Speed: Sergers are typically faster than traditional sewing machines, allowing for quicker construction of garments and projects, especially beneficial when working with large quantities of fabric or producing multiple garments.

4. Professional Look: The finished seams produced by a serger are similar to those found in store-bought garments, giving homemade projects a more professional appearance.

5. Versatility: While primarily used for seams, sergers can also create decorative edges, roll hems, and other specialized stitches, adding versatility to your sewing projects.

For those working regularly with stretch knit fabrics, a serger is an invaluable tool, significantly enhancing the quality and durability of your projects. While there is a learning curve associated with using a serger, its benefits for sewing stretchy, fraying, and lightweight fabrics are unparalleled once mastered.

The second method is using a Zig-Zag stitch on a standard sewing machine.

(information on the zig-zag stitch is above)

STEP 8

1. After deciding on the best sewing method for your project. Grab both the UNDER LOOP PANEL and MIDDLE PANEL.

2. Locate the "connect to..." edge on both panels.

3. Line up the edges and place the right sides together.

4. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 9

1. After sewing the two panels together. Locate the top short edge of the UNDER LOOP PANEL.

2. Place the right sides together.

3. Using a serger or a zig-zag stitch and stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 10

1. After sewing the to short edge on the UNDER LOOP PANEL.

2. Flip the panel to the wrong side.

3. Roll the seam allowance to the left or right.

4. Add a top stitch. For the best results use a edge presser foot. This will allow for uniform neat stitching along the seam.

STEP 11

1. Grab the FRONT BASE PANEL. Just like in the previous steps we will be adding eyelets to the eyelet placement guides.

2. Chalk the eyelet placement guides.

3. Add fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric directly on top of the eyelet placement guides.

4. Cut or punch holes in chalked eyelet placement guides.

5. Install eyelets in holes(Eyelets are installed the same way as the steps above).

STEP 12

1. Grab both FRONT BASE PANEL and FUR PANEL.

2. Locate the "connect to..." edge on both panels.

3. Line edges up with right sides together.

4. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

Note: If you are using a very thick faux fur like mine it may be best to use a standard straight stitch. Thick fur fabrics can be very to work with. It may even take a few tries to get it right.

STEP 13

1. Locate the top edge of the FUR PANEL.

2. Line up the top edge with right sides together.

3. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 14

1. Grab the UNDER LOOP PANEL assembly and FRONT BASE PANEL assembly.

2. Locate the top edge seam on the UNDER LOOP PANEL and top edge of the FUR PANEL on the FRONT BASE PANEL.

3. Line up both top edge seams with right sides together.

4. Place pins around the loop to keep layers lined up.

5. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance.

STEP 15

1. After stitching the loop. Feed the FRONT BASE PANEL through the loop so the wrong sides of the layers are together.

2. Flatten out bottom edge of the loop.

3. Add a top/edge stitch to the loop edge.

4. This stitch will go from one end of the fur to the other. This stitch will lock the layers together and help keep the right sides of the panels from coming out.

STEP 16

1. Using the pattern locate the stitch guide. referencing the stitch guide place pins along the guide.

2. Make sure the MIDDLE PANLE is laying flat and the outside edges line up on all panels.

3. Add a stitch directly above the MIDDLE PANEL on top of the UNDER LOOP PANEL.

STEP 17

1. Fold the MIDDLE PANEL up lining up the outside edges.

2. Add a stitch close as you can to the outside edge.

NOTE: This stitch will hold the MIDDLE PANEL up and keep it in place for future steps.

STEP 18

1. This step we will be feeding the elastic through the eyelets.

2. Cut a .5 yard of elastic or greater.

3. Feed elastic end though both eyelets in the MIDDLE PANEL with even length coming out both eyelets.

4. Feed elastic ends out through eyelets on the UNDER LOOP PANEL. Pull end all the way out.

5. Take elastic end and feeding it back through the same eyelet. Do not pull the elastic all the way through the eyelet. Leave a 2-4 inch loop on the outside of the eyelet.

STEP 19

1. Grab both cord stoppers.

2. Feed them on to the elastic loops.

3. Push them back the base of the eyelet. These cord stoppers will prevent the elastic cord from feeding back into the eyelet. We will add tabs in future steps.

STEP 20

1. The elastic cord ends should meet at the top near the top edge seams.

2. You can adjust the length of the elastic cord by overlapping the ends to your preferred size.

3. When you satisfied with the elastic cord size. Add a stitch securing the ends of the elastic together. I recommend using a zig-zag stitch for the best results.

4. After adding the stitch. Tuck the elastic cord up next to the inside seam.

STEP 21

1. Grab BACK MIDDLE and BACK SIDE PANEL.

2. Locate the curved edge on the BACK SIDE PANEL. This edge will be sewn to the long edge of the BACK MIDDLE PANEL.

3. Place the right sides together lining up the curved edge of the BACK SIDE PANEL with the long edge of the BACK MIDDLE PANEL.

4. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance. Feel free to use a serger or zig-zag stitch.

STEP 22

1. Grab the second BACK SIDE PANEL and place it on the opposite side of the BACK MIDDLE PANEL with right sides together.

2. Stitch at .25 inch seam allowance. Use serger or zig-zag stitch.

STEP 23

1. Next grab the BACK MIDDLE assembly and the FRONT BASE assembly.

2. Mark the center on the BACK MIDDLE panel.

3. Line the marked center with the center seam on the top edge of the FRONT BASE PANEL.

4. Add pins to both sides along outside edge.

5. This stitch we will be stitching one side at a time starting at the top center.

6. This will keep the panels from shifting can becoming out of line.

7. With pins in place stitch at .25 inch seam allowance using a serger or zig-zag stitch.

STEP 24

1. Pull the right sides out.

2. Using the pattern as a guide. Locate the hem guide at the bottom of the BACK SIDE and MIDDLE PANEL.

3. Roll the bottom edge over.

4. Add a top/edge stitch using a cover stitch or a zig-zag stitch.

FINISHED

The final step is adding your custom branding I recommend adding tabs to the front elastic loops for easy cinch adjustment. Adding a branded leather patch to your balaclava is a fantastic way to customize and elevate the final product. By incorporating your brand, you not only enhance the aesthetic appeal but also infuse a sense of identity and uniqueness into the design. Here's how the process works, especially with the use of double-sided rivets, to secure the branded leather effectively:

1. Branded Leather Creation: The first step involves creating a leather patch that carries your brand's logo or name. This can be achieved through various methods such as stamping, burning, laser engraving, or embossing, depending on the desired effect and the resources available. The key is to ensure clarity and durability of the branding on the leather, as this will be a prominent feature of the fanny pack.

2. Positioning: Once the branded leather patch is ready, the next step is to decide on its placement on the fanny pack. The location is crucial as it affects visibility and aesthetics. Common spots include the front center, where it's most visible, or on a discreet side for a more understated approach. The goal is to choose a spot that complements the design of the fanny pack and enhances its overall look.

3. Using Double-Sided Rivets: Double-sided rivets are chosen for their strength and ability to securely fasten the leather patch without damaging the materials. To attach the patch, small holes are made in the corners of the leather patch and corresponding spots on the fanny pack. The double-sided rivets are then inserted through these holes from the underside of the fanny pack fabric, through the leather patch, and capped on the top side. A rivet setter tool is used to clamp down the rivets, ensuring a tight and secure attachment.

Adding a branded leather patch with double-sided rivets to a balaclava not only personalizes the item but also significantly boosts its value, making it a unique piece that stands out. This customization is a testament to craftsmanship and attention to detail, reflecting the maker's pride and the brand's identity. It transforms the fanny pack from a mere accessory into a statement piece, enhancing its appeal to customers looking for something special and personal.

Thank you! for taking the time to explore our balaclava + fur sewing project! It's been a pleasure to share this creative journey with you, and I sincerely hope you enjoyed the process of making your very own balaclava. Crafting something with your own hands is a rewarding experience, and using your creativity to produce a beautiful, finished product is truly special. I hope that your fanny pack not only turned out great but also reflects your unique style and creativity. Thank you again for joining in on this sewing adventure. May your new balaclava accompany you on many exciting outings, filled with pride in your craftsmanship and the joy of creation.